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Jellyzine!

I spent a few weeks working with a gelatin-based printing platen! Join me as I explore using this device steeped in zine history, ramble about defunct technologies, and in general have…fun!

Get a Zine!

Jellyzine – Hectograph Edition

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Jellyzine talks about how to make your own homemade version of a jellygraph/hectograph/gelatin press. It’s part of zine history! This version is an imperfect reproduction done on a jellygraph. Darkness of the ink will vary!

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Jellyzine – Inkjet Edition

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Jellyzine talks about how to make your own homemade version of a jellygraph/hectograph/gelatin press. It’s part of zine history! This version is an inkjet printout.

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Jellyzine – Free PDF

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Jellyzine talks about how to make your own homemade version of a jellygraph/hectograph/gelatin press. It’s part of zine history! You’re welcome to print out and distribute this zine without modification.

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Resources

The Boy Mechanic – 700 Things for Boys to Do by Popular Mechanics – 1913. See page 326.

While these are obviously maker projects anybody can do, this book is filled with projects from the benign hectograph recipe I feature, to dangerous wiring projects guaranteed to burn grandma’s house down. Use common sense and remember some of the chemicals featured are dangerous.

Not in the recipe I put in my zine, tho. They’re all pretty inert; you’re more likely to make a sticky mess or stain things. Note that on page 240, there is a clay-based hectograph, which I have not tried.

Wikipedia Article on HectographsWikipedia is typically a great springboard to start off into a topic. The citations have a link to a Scientific American Cyclopedia with several hectograph recipes. (Hint, it’s on page 262, since the text is not searchable at the time of writing.)

Our Own Devices: Short: HektographA well done short on the history of the hectograph; only 7 minutes!

Iowa University’s LibraryA very nice blog post on making and using a hectograph. Chock full of photos and explanations of the demo.

Cheap Copies! A MOST EXCELLENT book by Rich Dana on the hectographs, mimeographs, and spirit duplicators. Absolutely embodies the spirit of being a maker and zinester. Chock full of sources.

Copying PencilsRelated and of-interest. Pencils made largely with methyl violet for duplicating and non-erasure of documents (pre-ballpoint pen!). I would love to experiment with these, but they appear to be expensive and hard to find.

Supply Resources

I won’t provide direct links to products here, but rather specific names and types. Some things you will have to hunt for the best source for you in your area.

Gelatin – You want powdered gelatin, it’s typically found in the grocery store near the Jell-O, boxed pudding, and baking supplies. Store brand gelatin is just fine, no need for fancy Knox brand.

Glycerin – This is a liquid. You can also usually find it in the grocery store, near skin care products. Pharmacists will know where it is if you can’t find it. Fun facts, glycerin can also be used as a sweetener and helps skin to retain moisture when applied topically. Note! You can make a jellygraph without glycerin. However, it may be wetter and have a poorer constitution with pure gelatin. Experiment.

Transfer sheets – The most popular brand are known as “Spirit Transfer Sheets” as they also are used by tattoo artists for transferring art to skin in order to tattoo. There are many no-name brands of transfer sheets with people stating varying degrees of success and experience with their quality. These are essentially sheets with a very thin layer of methyl violet-based dye on them, and work like carbon transfer sheets. They work with both hand-drawn pressure, and with thermal printers.

Inks – For folks who don’t want to use transfer sheets. You can get powdered methyl violet in small quantities from science companies who provide for schools and home enthusiasts. In the Popular Mechanics article listed above, there’s a recipe that calls for using methyl violet. I have experimented with gentian violet, obtained from my local pharmacy. It has much of the staining quality, but isn’t especially dark as compared to the transfer sheets. In my exploring, I found that some tattoo supply companies carry “hektograph ink” which, supposedly is the same formulation as was used in days of yore. I have not purchased any at the time of this writing, so cannot comment as to its efficacy.

Thermal Printer – Honestly, while I’ve not had any issues with my postage-label-sized thermal printer, or other receipt-sized printers I own, letter-sized thermal printers seem to be rife with mixed reviews and issues. My advice? Hunt down a thermal fax machine. It takes time, but you can rescue one from the landfill AND get a thermal bed that works great for various maker projects. It took a while, but I tracked down a Brother Intellifax 775 for $10, and only had to drive 10 minutes from my house. They’re out there, be patient.

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Faxperiments

I’ve been quiet online, mostly because I’ve been playing with the latest tool in my toolbox, a fax machine! No, I’m not passing along chain letters and bad jokes, but rather using the thermal printer component of the machine for creating stencils from Risograph masters. This year I already tried purchasing a cheap thermal printer, and subsequently discovered it is utterly inadequate for my needs; it was chucked back to the Amazon Overlords the same day. After a few months of daily checking for fax machines in my area, I managed to snag one for $10. Granted, it’s not as compact and store-able as the portable thermal printers, but thus far it has spit out a perfect stencil every time. It doesn’t rely on battery/USB-C power nor do I have to finesse inconsistent Chinese printing software to get it to do my bidding.

I’m almost finished with an upcoming video about experimenting with hectographs, of all things. Hopefully it’ll be done soon!

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Digital Illustration Process

This is my process for how I make my digital illustrations. In a world where AI-generated images are proliferating our Internet life, it’s important to understand the amount of planning and work that goes into actual illustrations made by artists.


What’s my process? Let’s follow along an illustration I did for “The Imbolc Faerie” for a pagan holiday.

Step 1: Import the Sketch

I almost always start somewhere in my sketchbook. After I have a doodle I’m happy with, I scan it in and import it into CorelDRAW.


Step 2: Rough in the Vectors

Here, I’m using vector lines to build rough polygons of the shapes in my drawing. At this stage, there are no curvy lines; I have to visualize where lines will curve and flow.


Step 3: Create a Color Palette

Sometimes, I will find an image with colors I like and want to use. In this case, I’ve found a picture with lots of soft pinks and lavenders, so I auto-extract the colors into a new palette.

I also have a number of palettes with custom spot colors, as well as patterns I’ve created.


Step 4: Color Blocking

After I’ve a palette, I fill in all those polygons with blocks of color. The image kinda looks like paper cut-outs at this point. It is at this stage I can shuffle what order my shapes are in: some shapes should be in the front, some should be at the back. I also can determine which lines are going to be thicker, or become specialty shapes that simulate brush strokes.


Step 5: Convert to Curves

Now I tell the program that I don’t actually want all of my polygons to be straight-edged polygons: I want them to be curvy shapes.

Every dot you see on the screen is a point where I can adjust the curve of a shape, called a bezier curve. The general rule in vector drawing is less points. Mo’ points = Mo’ problems


Step 6: Adjust the Curves

This part takes the longest; time to fiddle with all the points and curves to make it look less like paper cut-outs and more like a drawing.

Sometimes I will use freehand curves rather than drawing polygon shapes if I can’t get the look I want.


Step 7: Background Colors/Designs

After most things are shaped and colored in, I’ll fiddle with the background colors. Sometimes a choice in background necessitates changing the main subject’s colors.


Step 8A: Gradients, Shadows, & Transparencies

Now I start to play with adding gradients, transparencies, and shadows to help define objects in the image.


Step 8B: Custom Fills

I have a number of custom fills I’ve made. This, for example, is a fill that simulates what I want a flame to look like.


Step 9: More Details

At this end-stage, I may add more details in that weren’t in my original sketch, or things that I feel like give the final image a little more sparkle.

In this image, I’m adding some stripes to the faerie’s legs.


Step 10: Add Text and 1,000 Tiny Adjustments

Finally, if the image calls for text, I add that in. Not pictured, the thousands of tiny adjustments, changes, and whatnot that lead to the final image.

So there you have it! How to make an image in 10 EZ steps! Seriously, though, while I follow this general procedure, the reality of drawing is that I flip flop back and forth between adjusting shapes, adding them in, changing colors, and so forth.

This is how I draw the illustrations for my oracle deck, Tarot cards, and more.

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Major Arcana: DONE

Big news today: I have finished the Major Arcana for the Tarot deck I have been working on! That’s 21 cards into my 78 card journey. I’ve been doing a lot of background work prepping for doing the pip cards: making patterns, color swatches, studying card history and meanings.

This has been an amazing project thus far: the sheer amount of art history alone crammed into these decks is incredible. Frankly, it’s been more fun for me to study the card history than to do actual practice readings! In any event, while hard to share my journey (Livestream me reading and taking notes? No thanks haha) I do broadcast live on YouTube every Tuesday while I’m drawing each card. I can’t wait to see what the next cards bring!

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Thank you, ATX

Austin Witchfest 2024 was an absolute delight. I met so many interesting people, and am blown away at the support I received. Coming off the heels of Staple! Expo, I am humbled by the number of folks who recognized my art and were excited by seeing it again.

Knowing I make zines, ceramics, and paintings that bring some light into people’s lives astounds me with how fortunate I am to be able to do so.

Thank you, everyone, from the bottom of my heart. Pictured: my rusty ol’ bike taking me to the Post Office to drop off a package. ♥️

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Why Bother Making Zines?

Why, in the world of the FUTURE should you bother making zines? I address why, in this handy video!

Are you interested in your OWN zine that talks about why you should bother making zines? You can either purchase your own copy OR download a FREE PDF to print and read/distribute without modification.

Why Bother Making Zines? Zine

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WHY should you bother making zines? Check out this cute lil’ zine for some reasons why! (You can also print out this zine for free and make your own zine to distribute, if you like!)

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Why Bother Making Zines? Zine Free PDF!

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WHY should you bother making zines? Check out this cute lil’ zine for some reasons why! You are welcome to print out and distribute this zine freely, though please do not sell or modify it. If you wish to purchase a finished version, check that out in my shop as well!

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Whew! Thank you!

MY GOODNESS. This past weekend was AH-MAZING. Austin Pagan Pride and Lone Star Zinefest, y’all wiped me out! Deepest thanks to everyone who came by my booth or table and purchased something. It makes me so happy to make art, moreso when I get to see how happy people are when they take one of my pieces home.

My next event is ArtsGoggle on October 21st. In the meantime, I will be working to restock everything I sold out of! If there’s something that’s out-of-stock in the store, it should return soon.

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Mimeographs

So, one of the reasons I call myself a “maker” is because I truly derive joy from the creation and process of bringing new art into the world. I’ve always had a soft spot for printmaking because of the involvement of process.


A Brief History

One of the “cute” methods of printmaking I’ve always had my eyeball on is that of Print Gocco, a now-defunct process for making handmade greeting cards. It was largely for the Japanese card-giving market, and ultimately was killed off by the rise and affordability of desktop publishing. The parent company, Riso, eventually ceased production of not only the device, but the consumables required to actually produce cards/prints. My misfortune was to discover the existence of Print Gocco a mere year after the system’s demise. I never actually acquired a Gocco system because, why? It might be a nifty novelty, but then becomes a dust-collection trinket in my studio after all consumables are gone.

Fast forward to 2017, when I discovered an insanely valuable tool for my maker’s toolbox, 3D printing. I still had the idea of Print Gocco: a cute, tiny print-production studio. I drew up designs to create one using LED lights and small photo emulsion screens to make little screenprinted cards. It kinda fell by the wayside, never to come to fruition, mostly because of how irritating getting materials for the “occasional” screenprint became. I’d have to buy enough emulsion to coat something like 20 giant screens, but it seemed such an absolute waste when I ended up making two tiny screens for cards or ceramics. Emulsion doesn’t last forever.

Last week, I randomly decided to poke into the world of Print Gocco again. I wondered if the system was easier to get? Maybe someone was making bootleg supplies? What’s up? I stumbled on a great blog post on No Bad Memories discussing a deep dive on the Gocco process. Long story short, the dots were connected for me that Print Gocco was made by the same company that owns the Risograph, the Riso Kagaku Corporation.

In hindsight, I’m not sure how I didn’t immediately connect Print Gocco with Risographs.

I love making zines, and haven’t been able to find a place in DFW that offers Risographs to the general public. Oh, I’m sure there’s a place out there, but I haven’t found it yet. In the meantime! Thanks to No Bad Memories‘ additional blog post, I’ve put my mail label printer to work and have made my first two-color print using a method related to Print Gocco.

Unlike screenprinting, Print Gocco uses heat to essentially burn away a thin plastic film from a super-thin fiber substrate. No Bad Memories uses a label printer to accomplish this, another source, Stampalofi, uses a repurposed thermal fax machine to do so.

It took me a bit of experimenting to find settings that worked for me, but here’s a little rundown of my process, may it help other people also interested in hand-making little mimeographs. I highly recommend reading both of the blogs on No Bad Memories, in addition to watching Stampalofi’s videos if you’re unfamiliar with the process.

Materials & Settings

The name of the magical material to make stencils is typically referred to as “Risograph master”. You can find rolls of this on eBay for at various price points: I got lucky and snagged a roll for $13 including shipping. (Generally they seem to go for around $50 for 2+ rolls. Shop around.) This gives me enough material to make literally hundreds of cards. It is essentially a roll of super-thin tissue with a super-duper-thin layer of plastic. You will want very sharp scissors/blades/papercutter to cut this stuff.

Me, I have a Munbyn label printer. They’re not too expensive, and super handy when you have to make thermal stickers like mailing labels and bag labels for your small business. The label printer prints via heat, not ink. Thus, it is perfect for this project.

I’ve screenshotted the settings I have found to work: yours may be different! But in my testing I’ve found that you want the label to go slow enough to allow for the plastic to burn away, and a power level in that Goldilocks area of not too hot and not too cold. Too hot will melt too much plastic and you’ll be scraping melted plastic off the heat element of your printer.

Color! This biggest issue with screenprinting is you don’t want your inks to dry on you. In big boi screenprinting at the factory, a lot of inks need to be heat-dried, so they don’t dry superfast. Fancy pants artists often use oil-based inks to print. I phased out all oil-based materials in whatever I’m doing because it smells terrible, gives me a headache, and is a PITA to clean. For our little Print Mocko, we want something that gives us working time and won’t dry faster than we can print. Stampalofi has a great video on making nori paste to extend the working time of acrylic paints. However, if you have them available to you, Speedball’s Block Printing Inks have a moderate working time and are water clean-up. They worked perfectly for this.

A block print roller or brayer. Screenprinting uses a squeegee. I started out using a squeegee for this, but it was MUCH too aggressive for the delicate fiber stencil. I noticed it breaking down after a short while. Finding inspiration from devices like the Edison Mimeograph, I found that using a roller was much better suited to the process. Again, Stampalofi has a great video on using a Lion Menucator, which illustrates the hand-rolled Mimeograph. (If you’re a huge dork like me, check out this filmstrip on “Mimeographing Techniques“. Yessir, us old folks remember getting purple copies in school for our worksheets.) In short, a hard rubber brayer worked great.

A frame of some sort. In my pictures, I used one of these I obtained at Daiso for cheap and cut it up. (Believe me, I’m mulling on how to best over-engineer a reusable 3D printed solution.) For an even cheaper solution cut up an old cereal box and tape your stencil to it.

Paper. You can’t used a toothy/textured paper for this. You’re not gonna get a clear impression. Use something smooth. For this project, I used some generic cardstock I got at HEB. My proofs were done on index cards. Entire project was great for the wallet-area.

General Process

This isn’t an especially detailed tutorial, rather an overview of my process after I manufactured a stencil. I will reiterate that 1) I’m assuming someone endeavoring to make lil’ mimeograph prints is familiar with the general idea behind risographs/mimeographs and B) has checked out linked blogs.

Checking fits with my Daiso frame I made. The plastic is soft enough to bend a bit, but stiff enough to provide a nice frame for the stencil to fit into.

In this shot you can barely see where the plastic material has been burned away. Crucially, you will need to do two things when running the stencil material through your printer:

  1. Lay it shiny-side UP
  2. Print the MIRROR IMAGE of whatever it is your are printing.

Evidence of squeegeeing/scraping the ink through the stencil. The entire setup being clear was helpful with half-assed registration.

Lots of little one-color prints! Embrace the lil’ imperfections, for they are what exposes your laziness humanity.

When you’re done with a color, so is your stencil. My aggressive squeegeeing absolutely wore it out, and removing it from the frame completely destroyed it.

After a bit more scraping, I switched to the brayer. The results were MUCH more satisfactory, not to mention less messy. The next project will be brayer-only.

Checking a proof of brayer use. MUCH easier.

Look at all those imperfections! Things definitely crisped up after the brayer. Using the squeegee, you can tell where I was afraid to scrape and ruin the stencil, resulting in less ink deposited.

Mmm…so printy. This is pre-signing and edge-rounding. After that, they will be released into the wild as free art!

Thoughts & Source List

This entire Print Mocko project satisfyingly scratched an instant gratification itch I get now and then. (Pottery is NOT a speedy process!) I can’t wait to experiment with using the Riso stencil material for ceramics, and incorporate some spot colors into my zines.

A condensed list of helpful sources:

  1. Print Gocco – a Wikipedia article
  2. Print Gocco – a demonstration of the cute machine that caught my fancy
  3. Mimeography – a Wikipedia article
  4. Risograph – a Wikipedia article
  5. No Bad Memories – deep dive on Print Gocco and related processes
  6. Stampalofi – helpful videos on the riso stencil process and a mimeography demonstration
  7. An Old Filmstrip – showcasing mimeography techniques

I’m grateful to those who have shared their techniques, sources, and information in keeping old technologies alive in some form or another!